Unforgettable Alberta: A Journey Through Untamed Landscapes and Hidden Gems

 Sudeshna Sanyal

Cruise over a submerged ghost town? A mysterious Merman? Inside the mouth of the world’s largest dinosaur?

    Alberta, one of Canada’s most breathtaking provinces, offers a travel experience like no other. From the rugged peaks of the Canadian Rockies to the dramatic landscapes of the Alberta Badlands, Alberta is a paradise for nature lovers, adventure seekers, and those casual travellers who are looking for a peaceful break in a serene environment. Whether one is drawn by its vibrant cities, or ancient lakes and glaciers, Alberta's diverse landscapes and experiences captivate every traveller.

    Last summer, I had the opportunity to spend a month in Alberta, and it was an unforgettable, exhilarating experience.

The Majesty of the Canadian Rockies: Banff, Jasper, and Yoho

    The Canadian Rockies are undoubtedly the crown jewel of Alberta. A visit to Banff National Park, one of the most famous national parks in the world, is an absolute must. Banff is home to spectacular mountain scenery, crystal-clear lakes, and an abundance of wildlife. Lake Louise, with its turquoise waters and Lake Minnewanka framed by towering peaks, are some of the most beautiful glacial lakes in the region.

Downtown area of Banff

A perfect blend of old and new

    My first stop in Canadian Rockies was Banff. It is a charming town nestled within Banff National Park, known for its stunning scenery and vibrant atmosphere. The lively town center is lined with souvenir shops and a diverse selection of restaurants. Interestingly, most of the streets are named after animals, adding to Banff's unique character. The colorful houses in the town center are adorned with beautiful flowers, creating a charming feel-good atmosphere. Stone and wood houses and large flowerpots lining the main roads add to the town’s beauty, enhancing its vibrant and welcoming feel in summer.

Road name on pavement

Cascade of Time Gardens

    Opposite the Cascade of Time Gardens and beside the Bow River stands the 103-year-old Banff Trading Post, a historic shop with a rich legacy. Here, I caught a glimpse of the legendary Banff Merman, a mysterious creature likely acquired by Norman Luxton in 1915. It is a taxidermy hoax, created by sewing the upper body of a monkey to the lower half of a fish, with additional detailing crafted from papier-mâché about a hundred years ago probably somewhere in Asia! A few such ‘mermaids’ exist in other countries, but this is the only ‘merman’!

Banff Trading Post

Banff Merman

Bow river and the town of Banff as seen from the Sulphur Mountains

Bow river

    Jasper National Park was closed due to devastating wildfire for most of this summer. On our way to Banff, we stopped for dinner in a small town called Nordegg. Here, in the distance, we could see thick, dark smoke from the wildfire rising high into the sky.  Although Jasper was closed, the Icefields Parkway was open. The journey along the Icefields Parkway between Banff and Jasper is often regarded as one of the most beautiful drives in the world.  Few visitors leave these national parks without experiencing a close encounter with wildlife. We saw black bears and deer right next to our car.

Smoke from the Wildfires was visible from Nordegg

A Black Bear by the Icefield Parkway

    My visit to the Columbia Icefield and the Athabasca Glacier was truly unforgettable. Initially, my booking was cancelled due to the wildfires in Jasper, but after several weeks, parts of the national park reopened once it was safe. Tourists explore the Athabasca Glacier aboard large, specialized vehicles known as Ice Explorers, making for an extraordinary experience. There are few such vehicles in existence in the world.  Ice Explorers are equipped with huge tyres specifically engineered to traverse the slippery, icy terrain of glaciers. The expert driver slowly drove down the lateral moraine to reach the glacier.

An Ice Explorer on Athabasca glacier

 

Glacial striations formed around 10000 years ago

    The cold breeze greeted us as we stepped out of the bus on the glacier, which is a river of ice moving at a speed of five to ten centimeters per year. I felt the two hundred thousand years old ice of the ancient Athabasca Glacier under my feet and collected its water, a humbling experience indeed.

Athabasca Glacier (near) & Columbia Icefield (far)

Blue meltwater of the Athabasca Glacier

    On the return journey, while I was still in awe of my close encounter with the ancient icefield and glacier, I couldn't help but wonder about the glacier's future, as it continues to shrink at an alarmingly rapid pace. I felt the weight of witnessing a natural wonder in decline.

The Athabasca Glacier once extended to the blue boardwalk where this photo was taken

    After visiting the Icefield, I headed to the Skywalk, a glass-floored platform suspended 918 feet above the 240,000-year-old Sunwapta Valley. It’s an engineering masterpiece, capable of carrying the equivalent of two Boeing 747s! From the Skywalk, we were treated to stunning views of surrounding peaks, the V-shaped canyon and the Sunwapta river below.     

Glass Skywalk at 918 feet above the valley

Sunwapta Valley from the Skywalk

    Next to these parks lies Yoho National Park, a hidden gem in the neighboring province of British Columbia. Here, we discovered awe-inspiring natural wonders such as the beautiful emerald-green waters of Emerald Lake, the magnificent Takakkaw Falls, Canada's second tallest waterfalls and the Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse River.

Takakkaw Falls

    Shaped by the relentless force of rushing water that once formed a waterfall, the Natural Bridge stands as a striking testament to water's immense power in sculpting the landscape. The softer rock beneath the hard limestone band eroded more rapidly, and over time, cracks in the rock expanded, redirecting the flow of water beneath the outcrop forming the Natural Bridge.

Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse River, British Columbia

    I saw wildlife corridors in these national parks for the first time. Our hotel room was stuffed with lots of useful things including bear spray and this was something absolutely a new for me! It left me wondering about the usefulness of the spray in the hands of a novice like me!

Wildlife Corridor

Bear Spray

Protection Against Wildlife

    Elk Island National Park located near the capital of Alberta is a UNESCO designated Biosphere Reserve. It stands at the heart of Canada’s bison conservation efforts. It is popular among the locals for a wide variety of outdoor activities including stargazing and aurora viewing. Here, I saw bison for the first time in my life!

Elk Island National Park has a prominent history in bison conservation

The Alberta Badlands: A Journey Back in Time

    The Alberta Badlands present a dramatic contrast to the towering Rockies. Located in the southeastern part of the province, this region is famous for its striking rock formations and rich deposits of dinosaur fossils. Seventy-five million years ago, southern Alberta was a subtropical region filled with mighty redwoods and giant ferns. Today, dramatic, eroded landscapes stretch endlessly across the horizon. The Canadian Badlands are home to the world’s largest deposits of dinosaur fossils. Exploring the Badlands offers a glimpse of Earth’s prehistoric past.

Canadian Badlands, Alberta

Canadian Badlands: Dramatic, eroded landscapes

    The town of Drumheller, the heart of the Canadian Badlands, proudly holds the title of the "Dinosaur Capital of the World." No matter where you look in this town, you'll find something related to dinosaurs! Even the ice cream shop had dinosaur statues! It was interesting to note that many of the streets in Drumheller are named after dinosaurs! The Visitor Information Centre is full of dinosaur souvenirs.

Streets are named after Dinosaurs!

A Parasaurolophus in the park!

Dinosaurs everywhere!

    Standing tall above the Drumheller Valley at the base of the Visitor Information Centre, is Tyra, the world's largest dinosaur statue. I climbed up the 106 steps inside the giant statue of the Tyrannosaurus rex to get a unique and breathtaking view of the surrounding badlands and Red Deer River from its open mouth.

A view of Red River from inside the mouth of Tyra, the world's largest dinosaur statue

    The Royal Tyrrell Museum, located here, has one of the world’s most extensive collections of dinosaur skeletons. The Royal Tyrrell Museum's 'Dinosaur Hall' houses one of the world’s best collections of dinosaur fossils. From the well-known herbivore Triceratops to the formidable Tyrannosaurus rex, 'Dinosaur Hall' captivates visitors, sparking excitement in every dinosaur enthusiast. The museum also houses life size dinosaur statues created based on extensive research.

Royal Tyrell Museum: Realistic dinosaur statues

Black Beauty: Well preserved T rex fossil

Royal Tyrell Museum: Gorgosaurus

Stegosaurus

    As we headed back to Edmonton from the Museum through the unique landscape of the Badlands, we could not help thinking about the giant dinosaurs that roamed in that region millions of years ago and their tragic end at the K-Pg boundary when around seventy-six per cent of the species became extinct. 

Source: Royal Tyrell Museum

The Pristine Lakes

    Alberta is an outdoor enthusiast's paradise, offering everything from skiing and snowboarding to hiking and kayaking. In winter, the Rocky Mountains become a snowy wonderland perfect for snow sports, with renowned resorts like Lake Louise Ski Resort and Sunshine Village. However, since I’m not especially drawn to winter sports, I didn’t mind missing out on these activities.

    The breathtaking glacial lakes in the Canadian Rockies have a different charm. Their striking crystal-blue color, created by the mix of rock flour and glacial meltwater, is truly unique. These areas have been home to indigenous peoples for thousands of years, adding rich cultural significance to their natural beauty.

    Lake Minnewanka, located in Banff National Park, stretches 21 kilometers, making it the second-longest lake in the Canadian Rockies. The Stoney Nakoda people who feared and respected the lake, named it "Minnewanka," meaning "Water of the Spirits".  The early European settlers named the lake ‘Devil’s Lake’ because of the sudden strong winds that blew over the lake. Surrounded by towering mountain ranges, the lake, though natural, was enlarged in 1941 when a dam raised its water level by 30 meters. This rise submerged the small town of Minnewanka Landing, which now lies underwater like a ghost town. Brave divers venture into the lake's frigid waters to explore the sunken streets, wharf and remnants of its old hotel. As we cruised across the lake, I found myself wondering what life must have been like for the people who once lived in that town.

Lake Minnewanka or the Lake of the Spirits

Onboard exhibits: The Stoney Nakuda people traditionally used heated stones for cooking

    Our next stop was another stunning glacial lake nestled among towering mountains, Lake Louise, named after Queen Victoria’s daughter, Princess Louise. Its crystal-clear turquoise waters shimmer in various shades of blue and green, creating a breathtaking sight that leaves visitors in awe. Tourists pause to soak in the lake's beauty before embarking on one of the many scenic trails that start from this spot.

Hiking trail along Lake Louise

Victoria Glacier on the mountain behind feeds the lake

Lake Louis, Banff National Park, Alberta

    The reflection of lush green vegetation along the mountain base enhances the lake’s mesmerizing appearance. The imposing Victoria Glacier serves as a dramatic backdrop to the lake, opposite the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, a majestic five-star hotel built in 1882. I heard that during the winter, the lake transforms into a frozen picturesque arena for ice skating!

Hotel Fairmount Chateau Lake Louise

Swiss mountais guides hired to assist hotel guests lived in the chalet

    One of the hiking routes leads to the popular Lake Agnes Tea House, where staff regularly hike up the mountain with fresh supplies, while some deliveries are made by helicopter.

    The strikingly beautiful emerald colour of the Emerald Lake of Yoho National Park in British Columbia, bordering Alberta, has captivated travellers for ages. It has a hiking trail along its shore.

    There are many other beautiful lakes in the province like the Waterfowl Lake, Bow Lake, Abraham Lake and Cline River, Allstones Lake in and around Banff National Park and the Astonin in Elk Island to name just a few. What captivates one's mind and soul in the vicinity of these lakes is their serenity. These lakes, nestled within rugged wilderness, evoke a deep sense of calm and solitude, inviting contemplation and a profound connection with nature’s beauty.

Alberta’s Cities: A Blend of the Old and the New

No trip to Alberta is complete without exploring its cities.

Edmonton, Alberta’s capital, boasts the West Edmonton Mall, the largest mall in Canada, and vibrant arts and culture scenes. The city’s festivals, including the Edmonton Heritage Festival, K-Days, Edmonton Fringe Festival and Taste of Edmonton Food Festival and others, celebrate the diversity and heritage of Alberta. Churchill Square is the main downtown square in Edmonton which hosts many of these festivals and events. The city is a seamless blend of its past and present. This is evident in its architecture, its museums and cultural events.

 

Taste of Edmonton Food Festival

Art Gallery of Alberta

    One amazing outdoor museum is Fort Edmonton Park, which rightly claims to bring ‘history to life’. It is Canada’s largest living history museum. The 158 acres wooded park is segmented into five parts, each depicting an era of Edmonton’s past: Indigenous Peoples Experience, the Fur Trading Era, the Settlement Era, the Municipal Era and the Metropolitan Era. The culture and history of the Indigenous peoples has been depicted in an indoor cultural centre. In this part of the park, all the staff are indigenous people explaining the different aspects of their lives with a focus on the Metis and Cree.

The Indigenous Peoples Experience exhibit invites visitors to explore the rich diversity of First Nations and Métis cultures

    Next is the Fur Trading era depicted through the 1846 Fort. Here not only does one see real huge log houses and formidable watchtowers complete with furniture, tools, and trade items, but also the way of life of the people of the era is brought alive by well-informed staff dressed in costumes of that era! They patiently answer all the queries that the curious visitors ask about quarters for tradesmen, clerks, trading post, etc. Fort Edmonton was the name of trading post set up by the Hudson’s Bay Company which was one of the oldest and largest fur trading companies in Canada.

The 1846 Fort: The Fur Trading Era has been depicted here 

1846 Fort: Watch Tower and Clay Bake oven

Trade Store

    The next section of the park, 1885 Steet, brings the history of Edmonton around 1885 to life, with authentic shops, businesses, homes, and public buildings recreated just as they were in Edmonton at that time. Visitors can explore a gun shed, fur store, jewellery shop, school, land office, and more, immersing themselves in the sights and sounds of the era. Strolling through these establishments truly feels like stepping back in time! One of the highlights of this area is the chance to enjoy horse-drawn wagon rides and pony rides, adding to the charm of the experience.

1885 Street: Fur Store & Warehouse

Horse Drawn Wagon Rides

    The last two sections highlight the history of 1905 and 1920 with buildings and establishments from those periods – telephone exchange, church, school, law office, bank, fire station, cinema hall, motor workshop, exposition and many other interesting exhibits. Here, one will visit some of the actual houses from those periods which have been brought here from their original location in the city! The interiors of the houses have been maintained exactly as the original, including staff dressed in the costumes of that period explaining the history of the household including how different local foods were made in the kitchen!

Firkins House on 1995 Street: Sitting Room

Kitchen

    The Motordrome on 1920 Street featured a classic car garage complete with a vintage gas pump. Numerous antique cars were on display, including a classic Harley-Davidson motorcycle. The expansive Sun Drug Store was a perfect recreation of the old-fashioned apothecaries seen in period films, showcasing an array of medical instruments, wellness and beauty products, and home-use medical equipment from that era.

    The story of this visit to Fort Edmonton Park will not be complete if its old train and streetcar are not mentioned! It was a well-maintained 1919 Baldwin Steam engine and train which took us around the Park. Near the train station is the streetcar terminus which also is a well-maintained old streetcar that was once a common transport in Edmonton. Visiting Fort Edmonton Park was like taking an incredible journey through time – we have seen some similar lifestyles in old western movies and read in books. But seeing its exact version in front of our eyes was a special experience indeed.

    The Royal Alberta Museum (RAM) has an awesome collection of exhibits depicting the history of the province of Alberta from prehistoric times till present. It showcases dinosaur fossils, gems, minerals, fauna, history of Edmonton, indigenous people and a feature exhibition titled ‘Angkor - The Lost Empire of Cambodia’. Away from its galleries, in a secluded section of the museum, is the Manitou Asinîy. It is a meteorite which is revered as a sacred stone by the indigenous people. Out of respect for the culture of the indigenous people, photography is not allowed in this section.

    On one’s way around the city, one will notice five unique glass pyramids in a large garden in the North Saskatchewan River Valley. This is the Muttart Conservatory – it is a botanical garden with four climate-regulated pyramids showcasing around 700 species of plants of arid, tropical and temperate biomes. The conservatory is one of Canada’s largest indoor botanical collections. It sells live plants as well as plant-themed souvenirs, household items and gift items.

    Very similar to the Fort Edmonton Park is the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village in Edmonton which is also an outdoor museum. Many of us are not aware that there is a thriving Ukrainian community in Canada. In fact, Canada has the world’s third-largest Ukrainian population, following Ukraine and Russia. This is because many Ukrainian immigrants arrived in Canada in the late 19th century. They were primarily farmers and labourers who were looking for a better life and economic opportunities. Most of them settled in the parkland belt of the prairie provinces: Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Manitoba. The immigrants found some familiarity in Canadian Prairies and surrounding parklands as these areas have likeness to the steppes and woodlands of Ukraine from where they came. These Ukrainians and their descendants have made significant contributions to Canadian society in various fields. I saw a statue of a Ukrainian family in the grounds of the Alberta Legislature Building which commemorates the arrival of the first Ukrainian settlers in Canada in 1891 and acknowledges their significant contribution to Canada.

Grounds of Alberta Legislature Building: Statue commemorates the arrival of Ukrainian settlers

    In the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village, the history of the Ukrainian migrants has been depicted through over 40 buildings that have been relocated to this Heritage Village, where they have been carefully researched, restored, and furnished to reflect their early 20th-century appearance. These buildings were originally located in farms and towns of east central Alberta. In the Heritage Village, too, there were houses, burdei, shops, church, farms, barn, small huts, log cabins depicting the life of the early Ukrainian settlers.

    The visit to the historic McKay Avenue School built in 1881 allowed a glimpse into the education system in Edmonton in its early years. The rooms in the school building were kept exactly as they were before it closed, complete with important circulars, old photos and books. The first Legislative Assembly of the newly formed province of Alberta was held in the third floor Assembly Hall of the McKay Avenue School. Had I not visited the school, I would never have realized just how much of Edmonton's history is embedded within its walls!

    The farmers' markets in Edmonton and nearby St. Albert offer an authentic taste of the local culture. Everything sold here is fresh and made locally. The city has many other attractions like the University of Alberta Botanical Garden, Edmonton Valley Zoo, the 100 Street Funicular, the Art Gallery of Alberta, Alberta Legislature building, just to name a few.

Some glimpses of Edmonton and Vegreville:

Alberta Legislature Building, Edmonton 

Vegreville: World’s largest Ukrainian Easter Egg - Pysanka 

Old Farmers’ Market at Strathcona 

    Another important city in Alberta is Calgary, famous for its annual Calgary Stampede. It is a bustling city with a mix of modernity and cowboy culture. The city’s impressive skyline, alongside the Bow River, provides a stunning contrast to the surrounding prairie landscapes.

    The large zoo in Calgary is impressive for its collection and layout. Most of its four thousand animals have very large open enclosures. I saw Red Panda, penguins, African lion, Amur tiger, meerkat, a variety of lemurs, flamingo, yak, hippopotamus, giraffe, owls and many more. The visitors are allowed to enter the lemur enclosure in small numbers and see them at close quarters.

            

Conclusion: Alberta—A Province of Endless Adventures

This is just a glimpse of Alberta’s breathtaking beauty — countless more wonders await exploration across the province. From towering mountains and ancient glaciers to vast prairies and rich cultural heritage, Alberta offers a unique travel experience that is hard to match. Whether you’re an adventurer looking to hike rugged trails, a history enthusiast eager to explore prehistoric or cultural landscapes, or a traveller seeking both city life and nature’s solitude, Alberta has something for everyone.

    Your journey through this stunning province will leave you with unforgettable memories, a deep appreciation for the natural world, and a yearning to return to explore more of Alberta’s hidden natural and cultural treasures.

Acknowledgements:

1.     Map of Canada: By Hogweard - Localisation Manitoba.svg, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org

2.     Rajesh Menon and Sulagna Sanyal