Exploring Sundarbans: A Journey Through Gosaba, Pakhiralaya and Sajnekhali Eco Tourism Complex

Sneha Das

I still vividly remember how driven up I was in packing the bag for the trip. It wasn't just about going to see a new place for the first time that intrigued me, but it was traveling alone without my parents for the first time. I was having both independence and uncertainty, something I’d never experienced before.

It was a trip to the magnificent Sundarbans. It is known as the world’s largest mangrove forest with an area of almost 10,000 sq. km and is marked as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area comprises about 55% of forested land and 45% wetlands as tidal rivers, channels and estuarine mouths of rivers.

On the 5th of December,2022 we set off for Gadkhali by bus. Our bus departed the depot at 7:30a.m. with four teachers and 42 students of humanities department to study the environment and society of Godakhali.

The bus ride took so long, but there was laughter, chatter, and music. I was sitting next to my friends, and in this setting, I realized just how much I had been waiting for this trip. Everyone was snapping photos at every turn, documenting not just the landscapes but our shared excitement and anticipation. From the window I saw the Matla River it was sparkling due to the effect of sunlight, it was such a serene moment.

We had finally arrived at Gadkhali where our houseboat was waiting for us, it beached cautiously on the water with a wide-open deck and a wooden body that caught the scorching sunlight.

Walking down the little jetty, with our bags slung over our shoulders, I felt all sorts of things. Not any usual boat, this one was going to take us across some of the most remote and untouched landscapes I have ever seen. The houseboat was much bigger than I had expected. The boat creaked a little as I stepped on; the cool breeze fanned off the river embraced me into this new journey.

The boat started its journey towards Gosaba. Slowly it started to glide away from the shore, channeling through the quiet waters of the endless maze of rivers and creeks of the Sundarbans. With the wind coursing through my hair and with the bright sun casting golden reflections upon the surface of the river, I leant on the railing to take in this breath-taking view.

Ahead of us stood out the dense mangroves like a green wall that prevented all prying eyes from reaching the mysteries of the forest and hence set my thoughts wandering about what wildlife could be lurking in the shadows. We'd spend most of our time with our eyes glued on the passing mangroves and ears tuned to hear the far-off call of the wildlife from the spacious deck.

After sometime the boat reached Gosaba, we get off to visit the Sir Hamilton’s Bungalow situated on the banks of the river Ganges. The bungalow offers an excellent view over Sundarbans Tiger Reserve, which is full of thick forests and mangrove trees. Its large garden overlooking the river offers a very peaceful and picturesque setting. It has been a haven for bird-watchers and nature lovers and the best to watch around the rich bird life of the region combined with the tranquility of the beauty of the surrounding landscape.

Then we headed to Beacon’s Bungalow. As per the guide, this bungalow is also constructed by Sir Hamilton in 1903. Located in Gosaba, on the banks of River Vidyadhari, this bungalow is actually a remarkable structure built on sturdy wooden stilts. Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore had stayed at this very bungalow for two nights on December 29th, 1932, during his visit to Gosaba to see the development work done by Sir Daniel Hamilton in the Sundarbans. Now, it is known as Beacon's Bungalow and is one of the favorite tourist destinations in Gosaba having this connection with Rabindranath Tagore.

After two hours of boat ride, we finally arrived in Pakhiralaya village. The villagers were well-spoken and co-operative with us. We often witnessed most of their livelihood were animal grazing, some of them owned agricultural lands and have resort businesses.

Later on, we went to the local market in the evening. The villagers were selling Sundari, Goran, and other halophytes along with freshly extracted honey. Handicrafts made of jute, flutes, wooden toys, utensils etc. made by the local craftsmen. I bought a bottle of honey for home.

As the day's explorations came to an end, the excitement was only half-done. We all gathered in the hotel premises for a special cultural treat: a musical dance program was performed by one of the local dance groups. In their bright traditional clothes, the performers brought the merriment of the place to life with energetic dancing and music. Soon, the evening was electrifying, as the beating rhythms got us tapping our feet. Not wanting to be left out, all the students and subject teachers joined in for a dance with the performers. It was really a beautiful sight: teachers and students moving in sync, and for just one moment forgetting roles and responsibility, letting go and savoring the moment. Laughter filled the air and we were all part of the celebration.

The musical program ended, and we all converged to one big bonfire that was set up in the hotel garden. The bonfire set just the right mood for what was to be a very talented and entertaining evening. One by one, everyone started showing off his skill. It was the night of unity and belonging, and that's how we need to end our day that filled us up with new experiences and unforgettable memories

Next day, we set off in the morning by houseboat to visit the Sajnekhali Eco Tourism Complex. It is located in the northern part of Sundarbans, at the confluence of Matla and Gumdi rivers. It is an area of about 362 sq km and serve as a protected area for some endangered species.

We disembark from the boat and entered the wildlife sanctuary. There was a small temple of the goddess Bono Bibi, the guardian deity of the forest whom the residents of Sundarbans worship. There are various stories about the deity and the Bengal Tigers.

We had absolutely lovely time watching the wildlife in the split zones of the sanctuary. We went to see the ex-situ breeding enclosure for the critically endangered Northern River Terrapin (Batagur baska). We saw Crocodiles dozing by the water's edge and Spotted Deer grazing outside. The Otters darted playfully out of and into the water, and the Monkeys would tease us, following us from zone to zone, making it more memorable.

In the Sajnekhali Watchtower, we climbed up to see an enormous honeycomb hanging from a beam there; that too was an interesting phenomenon. From the top, the entire view of the sanctuary was breathtaking as the entire expanse of mangroves and other trees could be seen. There, before us lay stretched out the entire stretch of the pond where crocodiles live, some lazily basking along the water's edge. It was a vantage point from which we had an entire 360-degree view of the beauty and wildness of the Sundarbans.

As much as we enjoyed the day we had spent, it could have been even better if we had access to the Mangrove Interpretation Centre and Museum under the MAB Programme. Going through the museum would have given us an insight into how delicate the Sundarbans' ecosystem is and what great conservation activities are happening in this place.

As we disembarked from the boat at Sajnekhali to take our return journey towards Gadkhali, I could not help but be altogether satisfied with the exploration of the Sundarbans. The boat glided effortlessly through the meandering waterways, and just when one thought that the adventure had come to an end, a huge water monitor lizard was seen on the land i.e. to the left of our boat. Actually, a herd of deer walked out to the edge of the water a little ahead to perfect the ending for our day. The seclusion of the river, the sceneries of the wildlife, and the beauty of the mangrove forests slowly fading out to disappear made this trip unforgettable. At sunset, before the horizon, it reminded us of new experiences and memories we had gathered. That is how this place struck us, full of wonder and mystery and incredible beauty of nature, making this one a trip that can be cherished forever.

Student, Semester III